Brothers Traverse. South Peak via SE Ridge to North Peak Grade III 5.4, AI 2, Steep Snow to 70 degrees. (6-9 hours from 3000 ft. camp at Lena Forks, 4 - 6 hours from bivy at 5100 ft. above lunch rock),
Small rack: set of med to large chocks (#6 - #10 a couple of extras in the
larger range)
50 m rope
3 long slings (48")
(2) 36" pickets
Any one who casts their gaze westward from Seattle cannot miss the impressive view of the Brothers with their twin peaks capped in white. When you see the peaks on the horizon with sun setting behind them one wonders what the view from their summits is like. You want to climb not just one but both of the peaks that present such a grand appearance on the horizon. The obvious way to achieve the summits of both peaks is to traverse between both summits.
The traverse can be done either from South to North or North to South. The preferred route might vary by season. In early season when snow is still abundant on the ridge (can be scoped with binoculars from Seattle !) it is best to traverse from South to North. This is because the small increase in difficulty introduced by down climbing one particularly steep section of the ridge is surpassed by challenging route finding across several gullies and ribs to reach the Great Basin. This basin must be crossed before the North Peak can be ascended. In reality the difficulty does not increase by a very large factor in traversing from South to North and it is easier to find your way back across the Great Basin to join the regular South Coulier route.
The SE ridge is a good alternate finish to the South Coulier route. It offers good views across the flank of the mountain and a pitch and a half of solid rock before topping out on the south ridge connecting to the summit.
Ascend the standard South Coulier route until you are about 500 ft. above lunch rocks. From here you should see a gully paralleling (right of) the normal route. Ascend this taking the path of least resistance. You should not encounter any 5th class rock until 6600 ft. (the idea is to intersect the SE ridge at between 6400 - 6500 feet and then ascend until you can break through the ridge to the North side) From the gap ascend until faced with a 30 foot rock wall. Ascend this wall on good holds (5.4) until you reach a ledge which you will follow around the N. Side of the ridge. Once the ledge ends you will climb straight up a slabby rock face (5.0) on a combination of rock, snow and ice. Climb this to the crest of the SE ridge and follow to the Summit of the S Brother (6866 ft.). From here you will see the connecting ridge between the S. and N. Peaks. Descend the summit of the South Peak to the West. A rock buttress on your right will provide good protection for a large chock to protect the steep descent. Stay on the ridge crest. The snow tends to be firmer on the western aspects. The crux is encountered about 3 rope lengths from the summit. A cliff will bar further progress on the ridge crest and force you onto a steep snow face to the west (60 - 70 degrees). The best way to tackle this section is to descend next to the rock buttress to the west and slightly uphill from the cliff. Pickets work well here and there will be a good opportunity to protect the second at the bottom of the buttress with rock protection. It is best to belay from an alcove just above the notch. From the alcove head around to the left side (west) of the ridge across a ledge system (under a overhang) on good 4th class / low 5th class rock that protects well. Once you are able to rejoin the ridge climb up and onto an exhilarating knife edge ridge with drop-offs of hundreds of feet to either side. A prominent gendarme will bar the way after the exposed section. If there is sufficient snow you can climb up and over this obstruction or it can be bypassed by a ledge to the west (right) perhaps 40 - 50 feet below its top. Once around the obstruction there is another good belay in a rock alcove a few feet west of the ridge. There is one more section of steep snow to descend before beginning the ascent up moderate slopes to the final flat section of ridge and the summit of the N. Brother (Elev. 6800? Ft).
Descend the prominent snow coulior on the West side of the N. Brother into the Great Basin. Notice the prominent notch in the SE ridge as you are descending (this col is at 6000 feet). Make a traverse at about 5800 feet across the Great Basin until able to ascend up the notch. From here you will need to ascend across another gully toward a small notch the marks a gap that you will need to head through. This gap is about 6100 feet. Once at the gap a steep snow coulior descends to the SE. Descend this until you are able to skirt cliffs and head due south (about 5600 - 5800 feet). You will need to traverse across 30 degree slopes for 200 - 300 yards until able to rejoin the South Coulier climbing route at around 5500 ft.
-Robert Meshew, April, 2004