Pickets Traverse – Day 7

We took our time again this morning.  All we had to do today was hike out.  Hiking down the Barrier and finding our way down to Terror Creek was the plan.  We’d abandoned the idea of attempting to make our way through the Barrier, across Terror Basin, and to the trail that Michael and I were on last year when we did West McMillan Spire.

We made our way across slabs then a long section of tedious boulders before ascending steeply to Stump Hollow.  At this point the Chopping Block was right in front of us.  I would have done it had Michael and Aidan been in to it.  Aidan insisted “no”.  He was probably right and both Michael and I conceded.  We decided not to get greedy.  The trip was already hugely successful; we’d just hike out today.

Stump Hollow is a dry and barren area consisting of not much more than slabs and heather.  We were lucky enough, however, to find some melting snow which we thirstily drank.  I should mention at this point that we only had half of our water bottles.  I can’t remember exactly where (I think Mount Fury), but my nozzle on my camel back had popped off and vanished in the rocks.  Later, when descending Mount Fury, I must have inadverdently placed Michael’s water bottle somewhere that I did not notice.  When we needed it; it was nowhere to be found.  So, I hiked out with no water but instead took advantage of streams like the one we found in Stump Hollow.  They were few and far between in this area though.  We entered the trees above the Barrier and eventually found a trail.  We were most thankful.  The Barrier frankly looks impossible to get through at this point; I wouldn’t even bother trying.  Instead, we continued to drop down to the magic number of 3400 feet where we’d start looking for a way down.  We did get off the trail during one section and spent some minutes bushwhacking around.  After a suggestion to get back on the Barrier crest, we headed up and found the trail again.  We continued to follow it down, thankful to be in the trees away from the sweltering sun, although it was still super hot in the forest.  We stopped to took a break and everyone stripped off their shirts to dry out.  We were soaked!  We ate the remainder of our food, mine anyway was finished.  Not long after we started we saw some flagging, then some more over the edge, apparently descending.  Our altimeters were reading high, we later discovered, about 300-400 feet.  They reported 3760 or so.  We decided to chance it and descend.  We rationalized that the flags were placed on the ascent and decided to try it out.  Except for one spot where we lost the trail and later regained it, it was quite followable.  When I say that, I mean “followable” in terms of the Barrier’s reputation and the Pickets in general.  The pine needled slopes were so steep that we opted to put on crampons for the majority of it.  All in all, it wasn’t too bad.  Near the bottom of the valley “U”, we took off crampons and made our way to the thundering sound of Terror Creek, still following a trail.  I was actually quite suprised (and delighted) about how quickly we got down to Terror Creek.

At the creek, we dropped packs and rested.  Aidan ran over to the creek for water as Michael and I chatted.  Out of the corner of my eye, I saw Aidan fall in.  By the time, I was able to make my way around a fallen log to get to him, he’d already gone under, re-emerged, and pulled himself out absolutely soaked.  He cursed himself for picking the spot with the rapids to fetch water when there was a nice placid pool to the left.  At least he didn’t rushed down stream where fallen logs and boulders were waiting, but he was utterly drenched.  While Aidan dried out, I dunked my head a few times in the pool.  Aaaah!!!  So refreshing!  My enthusiasm finally was too much for Michael and, though he is loath to get himself wet, dunked his head satisfyingly into  the water as well.  We slung on our packs (Michael had fashioned garbage sack socks for Aidan) and made our way across the giant fallen tree to the other side where no trail and lots of devil’s club was awaiting us.  The coolness of Terror Creek gave way to more hot sweat as we thrashed through the brush looking for signs of a trail.  There were only faint hints.  Aidan led us up through a section with me following.  Not after too long, another scream of pain came from Michael and, knowing what it was, we all ran through the devils club and other brush nearly tripping down a steep embankment before stopping.  Michael was stung again and we all lay in the brush catching our breath.  We dragged ourselves back up the slopes looking for a reputed climbers trail.  No luck.  We traveled for a while seeing nothing, Michael was low, Aidan was in the middle, and I was high.  After a few minutes, I shouted, “Trail!” and the others excited came up.  We followed the thin climbers trail through muddy gullies and more steep pine needles making our towards Goodell Creek.  We lost the trail a few times and spread out again and rediscovered it.  I was up in front again and the trail suddenly started looking like what I remembered when Michael and I inadverdently followed it partially a year before (we’d missed the turn up to Terror Basin).  Sure enough, I arrived at the flat campsite area where the trail turnoff was.  We were finally at the end of all unknowns and on our way out.

The Goodell Trail seemed to go quickly.  We’d been begging for a long time, “can we just have some simple hiking!?” and finally we could enjoy simple walking.  Aidan and I took the opportunity to jump into Goodell Creek when the trail came within a few feet of the trail.  Michael went on up ahead with my mp3 player (he’d forgotten his).  The water was really cold but it felt so good.  The only downside was the current was pretty strong and the creek bed was “baby head” rocks that were difficult to walk on.  There wasn’t much complaining from us though.  The remainder of the hike out was uneventful except for two events:  One, getting a good look at the massive rock slide on the opposite side of the creek that occurred after the torrential fall and early winter raining.  The other occurred when we rounded another near the creek bank.  There was a section of the shore roped off with odd red flags.  There was someone lying down under a blanket with a wide-eyed stare on him.  Being a bit weirded out, Aidan and I snuck away whispering to ourselves, “Did you see that?  What the heck was that?”  Very strange.  A diverted trail near the end deposited us into Goodell campground which is near where we left Michael’s car.  There were other similar strange folk sitting quietly around these flags.  At least they let us pass in peace.

We met back up with Michael at the car and drove quickly back to Ross Lake trailhead to pick up my car.  Along the way we shouted, hooted, and hollered in our excitement having completed the trip!  Man, what a fantastic feeling.  At the Ross Lake parking lot, I discovered that my car’s battery was mysteriously dead.  I have no idea how this happened.  I didn’t have my lights on and none of the lights were toggled on.  It’s still a mystery.  I approached some other climbers at the other end of the parking lot to ask them for a jump.  It turned out to be the party of five, then four, then three!  Well, that was good luck.  It turned out that’d seen us descending the steep face on Mount Fury.  We, likewise, had seen them ascending east glacier route on Mount Fury.  After my car was started we all headed down to a burger joint in Marblemount.  Michael and Aidan though were set on Mexican by the time we arrived so we just got a snack instead.  I got a blackberry milkshake which hit the spot.  Later on, at this expensive place in Burlington called “El Cazador”, we got our Mexican food.  Unfortunately, it was some of the worst I’d ever had.  Bah, no matter!  Just sitting there enjoying each others company and reminiscing about the trip was enough.  Trip of a lifetime, fellas!

Michael has given this trip the just respect it deserves in a well thought-out and unique web page.  This is way beyond the typical trip report.  Check it out here.

Pickets Traverse – Day 2

I awoke slowly in the dank dark forest to the voices of the other party packing up and heading out.  I recall looking over and seeing the big backpacks heading out.  I went back to sleep for a bit then got up.  For the most part, I awoke before Aidan or Michael and usually just lounged around until they got up.  After all, “men need their rest and the rest means prone!”  Once I heard them stirring, I went and recovered the food from the ad hoc bear line.  After the typical spartan breakfast consisting of a cheery bar, we headed off.  We knew this day would be another tedious day.  Whereas the first was a day of a lot of miles on a nice trail, this one was a only a few miles on no trail, with the first mile or mile and a half consisting of a steep bushwhack.  We left the trail and followed our noses up.  Lower down, the hiking wasn’t too bad.  There was plenty of hiking through wet brush but the blueberries at least made it pleasant sometimes.  The brush yielded to heavier timber as the way became increasingly steeper.  The other party was in front of us, within earshot, we kept pace with them, for the most part until a most unfortunate account that I am loath to recall – Michael being strapped to the pillory and whipped by the yellow jackets.  Ug, it was awful.  It’s unclear who stepped on them, Michael or me.  I was in the front and it’s a common rural legend that the person in front steps on the nest in the ground and the follower pays the price.  Anyway, the problem was that Michael didn’t, or rather couldn’t thanks to the incline, get away fast enough.  He must have been stung 10-15 times over the period of about 3 minutes.  All Aidan and I could do was stand and listen.  We did supply him with 800 mg of Ibuprofen to help with the swelling.  Mental note:  Benedryl for next time.  I thought perhaps the trip might abort at this point, but Michael, being the positive alpinist he is, carried on.

Pressing on, we arrived in denser brush again, much denser than below and we took to grasping of roots, a technique engrained after Johannesburg Mountain, to move ourselves up the steep terrain.  After some scrambling, in which I nearly slipped, on some steep boulders, we caught up with the other group of five that had camped near us, although they had lost one member – he had hiked out that morning because he’d somehow lost a helmet on the hike in to Beaver Pass.  They had heard Michael hollering below.  We ended up passing them and pressing on through the sparse forest.  We had finally arrived above most of the trees and the views were starting to open up.

The sun beat down on us forced us into numerous rests.  After our lunch stop, where we had our first excellent and sobering views of the north buttress of Fury, we stopped two additional times at small lakes to slurp water.  The second one was most pleasant.  Aidan and I dunked our heads and dropped our shirts into the water.  We took a long break and headed off again.  I think the distance on Wiley Ridge is only something like 7 miles or so, but the hiking moved slowly for us.  We made the mistake of staying low and that forced us into a lot of cliffy downclimbs.  The best approach would have been to stay on the broad ridge crest for the first part (except for the prominent sub peak (pt. 6955) that you see shortly after exiting on to tundra), and then drop down a dirt gully before Eiley Lake.  The ridge is indeed block by sheer cliffs above Eiley Lake – we had to descend to it.

A miscommunication in which Aidan and I became separated from Michael cemented the idea to not take any more chances on “shortcut” traverses.  After Eiley Lake, we went high and stayed high and we were able to finish the hike to camp relatively quickly.

We arrived above Wiley Lake, which was still 75% frozen over.  We moved on to the glacier on the right side and continued up the glacier making for another subpoint (pt. 7,374) just before the Challenger Glacier.  It looked possible to pass the point on the left but the map doesn’t show a prominent notch.  The left side was sheer cliffs and we instead moved through a small notch on the left side of the subpoint.  Through the notch, we went right and up (above picture) when finally led us to gentle slopes which we followed down to the Challenger Glacier.  I dropped my pack and ran down the slope and found a pretty sweet spot for us with running glacier water.  This would be our Challenger Camp.

We had arrived sometime around 7pm, if I recall.  That was later than we’d anticipated but still with enough time to relax and enjoy the pleasant camp before the sun went down.  I cleaned up in the glacier water, nearly frostbiting my fingers again after washing my socks!  Dinner again was most welcome and delicious.  Because we were on big granite glacial slabs, we all ended up sleeping under the stars this night; not just me!

On to day 3.