Tag Archives: American Border

Tomyhoi Peak

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After a full day of looking for the trailhead for Mount Rexford and being intimidated by dark stagnant clouds when we finally did find it, Michael and I decided on a simpler alternative: the southern route on Tomyhoi Peak. The day before was almost comical. We’d relied on incorrect elevations, but more damningly, I had somehow come under the impression that the turnoff for the Rexford trailhead was the second left turn not the right. To make matters worse, at that second turnoff, the incorrect elevations were right on. “The trail should be right here! Here’s the hairpin turn and we’re at 2820 feet of elevation. Where is this trail!” We also ended up biking (thankfully we used bikes on the long washed out logging road) into the U.S. in our search for the trailhead. In the end, we chalked it up to experience. At least we now know where all these trailheads that we’ll be using in the future are.

After a nice dinner at Pizza Hut in Chilliwack, we drove back through the border (and I lost my passport – I still don’t know how), got on to the Mount Baker trail and headed for the Twin Lakes road and the Tomyhoi Peak trailhead. We were following the Beckey guide which mentioned 2.4 miles and 2460 feet of elevation once turning onto the road. Well, we passed that seeing no signs of a trailhead. Here we go again. “We’re going to have all our trailhead troubles rolled into one trip this weekend”, we thought. We continued on and soon were at the trailhead for Tommyhoi Lake, Gold Run Pass, and Yellow Aster Butte, well beyond where Beckey’s book described and the trailhead that I’d remembered from my infamous trip to American Border Peak. We decided to at least pull over and throw the bags down and get some sleep and then try to find the trailhead by light in the morning.

We awoke to a clear morning, though we had big dropplets of dew all over our bags. This morning was significantly colder than previous summer mornings. Fall is on the way. We calculated the distance to the rumored trailhead in reverse, hopped in the car, and headed out. At the exact elevation, we saw an abandoned road that turned into a trail. Our mileage, however, looked to be a little off. With self-doubts magnified after the previous day’s difficulties, we still decided to try it. The trail soon constricted down to a small path and then became enveloped in brush, wet brush at that. I took the lead blasting through wet blueberries, ferns, low-growing evergreens, and other typical Cascadian foliage. After twenty minutes of this, I stopped just before a set of soaking bushes, reluctant to go on. Michael expressed his doubts. I didn’t want to turn around and try yet another trail. Instead of giving up, we pressed on and vowed to make it to old growth and out of the brush within 10 minutes or call it a day. I did feel confident that this trail would lead us somewhere. After all, due to our mileage calculations and the fact that we were trending east a good bit, meant that we must at least be between the desired trail and the Gold Run Pass trail. If anything, this trail ought to lead us somewhere. So, we would continue on or die in the process.

Well, within a minute we were indeed in old growth forest that started climbing steeply. The trail was easily travelled. We learned later that this route has been abandoned (duh) and all trails start at the Gold Run Pass trailhead. We pressed on, only losing the trail once in a section ripe with many “green spirits”. Back on a solid trail in deep forest and after passing a few small creeks we suddenly emerged onto a heather meadow with small ponds. At this point we knew we were on the right track. Maybe we could indeed salvage a good weekend after this incredibly bumpy start and our climb off Tomyhoi would not be a “Tommy Boy”. We continued on passing a rocky cliff on the right and ascending steeply until we emerged onto the lovely Yellow Aster meadows. Across the vast expanse to the northeast, we could see the bulk of American Border Peak and straight ahead of us, we saw Tomyhoi. Behind us, the views are expansive. You can see Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan in all their alpine glory. This is a great spot to just hike to, perhaps stay the night, and then head back. There were people up here doing just that – we saw three tents scattered around.

A trail before us wended its way steeply up the base of Tomyhoi for about 400 feet. The slopes then became more gentle. The Tomyhoi massif is very large and resembles a Colorado Peak in some ways. It was a nice change of pace – for once we weren’t hauling a rope, gear, shoes, helmets, and so on. Our day packs were very light, holding a little more than food, water, and a jacket. As we climbed higher, the views opened up even more. We could see to the Cheam range in Canada and southward to the Pickets where we’d been three weeks earlier. The trail meandered along and we passed a large flock of ptarmigans. Careful counting revealed no less than eight around the trail. Higher up, we had to drop down the first and most significant notch. We dropped perhaps 300 feet then climbed steeply up to slopes that were more broken and covered with scree. The trail continued to be in great shape. Below, we were able spot at least two other climbers on the mountain. We could see the summit in the distance. As we followed the trail up to the ridge, we encountered a party of three who gave us route information. We couldn’t stay on the ridge crest since it cliffed out. Instead, we’d need to climb along the top of the bergeschrund. Well, we had no ice axes or crampons. We’d have to see how this would work out.

Climbing along the bergeschrund was actually tricky without crampons or ice axes. It would have been easy just to scamper along the crest, but we had to scoot and stem our way along with rock on the left side and snow on the right side with a hole in the middle. It wasn’t too hard, just more annoying knowing that without the gear it was so much slower. The end of the snow scrambling featured a steep finish to level snow. There were big cups in the snow which made it much easier than where we’d just come from. Continuing to stem on rock and snow got us to the top without incident. Here we could get back up on rock and scramble up to the ridge 40 feet above. We cut along the back (left) side of the ridge on a nice trail along a ledge to another notch. An easy downclimb got us to the base of the final scramble. It looked steep but turned out to be easy 3rd class scrambling (maybe 4th if you’re using the Colorado standard – OK, enough jabs). We then were looking for a fifty foot gable. “Just what exactly is a ‘gable’?”, we asked. We knew it had something to do with a house (siting “The House of the Seven Gables”) but were a little embarassed that we didn’t know. Well, it turns out we correctly identified it. We travelled along the right side of a small formation that resembled a long roof. In fact, the definition of a gable is: “n. the vertical triangular end of a building from cornice or eaves to ridge.” And that’s the story of how we learned the meaning of “gable”. Above the gable, at a prominent ledge, we got on the ridge crest and scrambled easy slopes to the top.

We enjoyed great views around. To the rugged beauty of the North Cascades to the south to the logging roads and clear cuts of British Columbia to the north. We could see our original objective, Mount Rexford and the Nesakwatch Spires, in the distance. I think this view made Michael more excited about them. Perhaps we can hit this area in October if we’re lucky enough to get a spell of Indian Summer the way we did last year on West McMillan Spire. After a long lounge on the summit, we headed down. We were debating which way to go on the return. We could do a little extra and hike out Yellow Aster Butte trail to the trail head that we slept at and hitchhike down to our car below. We did see a trail that no doubt led there so we decided to give it a try. We were moving pretty fast and still had a good amount of daylight. We decided to throw in a quick hike up Yellow Aster Butte as well, which gave us good views down into Tomyhoi Lake. The return trip along the trail the runs into the main trail just below Gold Run Pass was a delight. The trail is a fun and gentle path along open slopes affording excellend views the entire way. When we arrived at the junction, we decided to run up real quick to Gold Run Pass. Heck, why not throw in a couple more hundred feet of elevation! It was all just for another view! On the way down, we stopped and chomped on some excellent huckleberries. Some fishermen passed us along the way and we struck up a conversation. They kindly offered to give us a ride back to our car. The hike out was uneventful other than it was extremely FAST. Those fishermen could move! Though travelling at top speed, I got left behind by about a minute or two. We enjoyed a bumpy ride in the back of a pickup down to the abandoned “Keep Cool” trailhead where our car was parked.

American Border Peak

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Dan gave me a call late on Friday to invite me to attempt American Border Peak with him the very same weekend.  I sort of had some other plans in the works but decided to attempt this peak with him.  This would definitely be some more good Cascade experience for me.  I did not fully know what I (we) was getting myself into though.  I drove up to meet Dan in Bellingham the next morning and we arrived at the Tommyhoi Lake trailhead in early afternoon.  Our original plan was to take advantage of good trail and hike over Gold Run Pass and then down to the Lake and attempt the peak from there.  When we got out of the jeep though, we were swarmed with skeeters and nasty biting flies.  Dan remarked that he’d never seen them so bad.  Other hikers were turning around.  We then decided to attempt a different route as described in the Beckey book.  We parked 1600 feet higher at Twin Lakes and would hike over High Pass and then bushwack to a campsite on the slopes of American Border Peak.

Fortunately, the bugs weren’t nearly as bad here, though they were still around.  We headed up and had our first view of Mount Larrabee and neighboring peaks in no time.  At the first little pass, which is unnamed, I think, the trail descended a bit then began ascending again and switchbacking to Low Pass.

After Low Pass, you traverse upwards maybe 100 or 200 more feet to High Pass.  At High Pass, you’re essentially at the base of Mount Larrabbee.  There are some faint trails leading up the slopes, which look quite Colorado-esque in nature – much scree.  Our route descended into the basin near the Garret Mine.  We dropped down and took a break at the mine, which was mostly submerged in water.  At this point the trail ended and we wouldn’t see trail again for a long time.  We began descending further down into the valley through grassy talus and then traversed northward allong the slopes of the Border Peaks.  Then, we were at the edge of the forest, which was formed by a nasty avalanche path featuring fresh dirt and broken trees.  Getting through this was a hassle, but nothing compared to what was to come.  We began our long bushwack through the forest.  Alas, I have now had my official introduction to North Cascade bushwhacking, and I must say that all the reading I did not fully prepare me.  First of all, the terrain was quite treacherous:  steep, covered in loose pine needles and lots of brush.  On top of that, the kamikaze bugs were back in full force biting and stinging.

The only way to effectively deal with the bugs was to keep moving.  However, continual movement and bushwacking sort of mutally exclude each other, for if you move to fast you risk falling and perhaps injuring yourself.  So, we made the best of a heinous situation.  On top of all this delight, the pines were obviously sapping – the leaves of the brush were all coated with sap which left our hands covered in the maple syrup stuff as we used the brush to balance ourselves.  Of course, that’s when they weren’t covered in thorns.  Fortunately, there was no Devil’s Club thrown in the mix.  I can only imagine the pleasantries of that.  Anyway, once we were through the forest, we exited into what I thought was clear tundra.  However, it was time for the slide alder to take over.  This stuff is truly treacherous.  There was a creek with a small ravine running down the mountain and trying to cross this damn thing was a true ordeal in patience and persistence.  The rubbery alder bent so much under our weight that it was hard to remain balanced.  It was so thick that I lost track of the ground more than once and ended up essentially climbing through the alder while 5-10 feet up in the air above the ravine.  Not good. 

We decided that we should get above this crap.  Going up against slide alder might even be more miserable because it points downhill like pikes.   To spare any more horror stories, I will only say that we arrived at our campsite with bloody blotches on us and profusely drenched from sweat.  Our campsite wasn’t much to write home about – right in the middle of a bunch of thick Cascade weeds!  Well, they were really flowers and other nice plants, but I wasn’t feeling too friendly towards them.  I had to laugh to myself when imagining various hikers in Colorado who are extraordinarily careful to not camp on the tundra.  I don’t think you could take out this Cascade stuff with napalm.

Dan had seen a bear up here in years past (he’s attempted the peak once before) and it’s easy to see why:  a vast supply of blueberries and huckleberries.  I was too tired, however, to worry about bears too much.  We turned in after a basic dinner and I was out like a light bulb.  Sleeping on the foliage was actually quite comfortable, most springy!

The following morning was a bit cloudy.  A good bit of dew had fallen.  Dan had some morning coffee and we were finally off.  We were going to climb up a gully part way then cut over into the trees.  Just climbing up the gully was a challenge in and of itself.  I ended up in a ravine that seemed to get deeper in deeper.  Finally, I used a log to climb out.  The main gully was, at first, great.  It was steep but the rock was totally solid and there lots of ledges and shelves.  I could fly up this type of rock.  Of course, it didn’t last.  We had to take the left hand gully, when it branched, for the right one was too steep.  The left gully was totally loose and miserable.  It was a total pain climbing up.  Finally, we exited to the left and were in the trees.  At last, we were in reasonably solid ground.  Sure it was steep and there was dew on the ground and the pine needles were loose, but at least if you fell, you weren’t going to go tumbling all the way down.  Relative difficulties were changing fast for me on this trip.

We broke out of treeline and began climbing pleasant (sic) scree and talus to the ridge saddle between American Border and Mount Larrabee.  At the saddle, we had great views of Mount Slesse right in front of us.  There were lots of clouds swirling though and most of the other peaks were completely shrouded.  Tommyhoi, in the opposite direction, opened up only occasionally, though we could see all the way down to the lake no problem.  We made our way up the ridge which is easy for a while, then dropped down into some steep slopes in order to arrive at a ridge on the opposite side of the face.  This slope was quite treacherous as it featured hard, solid rock with lots of scree acting like ball bearings under your feet.  Needless to say, it wasn’t very pleasant.  Eventually, we arrived at the ridge which was steep and loose itself.  We could see the remainder of the route which looked very dangerous to me, especially given the nature of the rock.  This was worse that South Maroon back in Colorado…well, maybe not worse but quite comparable.  Every other hold that I would grab would pop out completely.  It looked solid, but it wasn’t.  American Border Peaks is roughly like a South Maroon Peak…multiplied times two in steepness and distance.

We finally made our way up the ridge and around some towers and traversed a sloping area that featured a vertical cliff below us.  (Mental note:  don’t slip here).  One of the cruxes of the climbs, however, was still filled with snow and hence featured a short, but quite steep snow climb…and we didn’t have crampons.  Well, that was enough for me.  I just wanted to get off this mountain though I would have kept going if Dan had wanted to.  He was concerned about the time.  It was only 11:00, but we had a long hike out.  We decided to turn around.  We then took out the rope and decided to rappel at every chance we got.  It was so nice to rappel and not have to worry about foodholds, handholds, etc.  We rappelled a grand total of 6 times, I believe.  We managed to stay a lot higher on the peak before hitting the ridge, which is probably a good thing to do when climbing the peak – stay on the ridge until a rope is necessary, then carefully traverse across the face to the next ridge.  Finally, we were back at the saddle.

Our camp was a long long way below us and the lake was even further than that.  I mention the lake because our plan was to avoid the nasty bushwhack and (bushwhack) down to the lake and take trail out, then hike the road back up to the Jeep.  That was a lot more elevation, but at least we wouldn’t have to deal with the nasty brush.  Some of the downclimb was quite steep so we rappelled through the trees.  Eventually, we were back at the ravine near our camp.  We came through an excellent huckleberry patch and took some time to eat a little.  I don’t exaggerate when I say these were the best berries I’ve ever put in my mouth.  And that’s not due to hunger or anything; these berries were absolutely perfect and totally bursting with tangy flavor.  Man, I might just have to come up here to pick a bunch of berries some time.  It didn’t take me long to pack up when we got back to camp.  Dan, however, had brought a lot of stuff in his big ole honkin’ pack, poor guy.  We were finally ready then headed down. 

A couple of hundred feet below our campsite, we found a spot that looks to be the best place to camp.  It was right on the edge of the forest on level ground, not too thick, with a water source nearby.

Continuing down, the bushwack down to the lake was nothing compared to the one yesterday, although I did get stung on the leg by a hornet.  Joy.  I intently kept an eye on my altimeter as we descended and was pleased to see we were making good time.  Finally, we were at the last bushwhack to the lake.  The foliage was over our heads in some spots.  Incredible.  Standing on the shores of the lake, however, was a great reward.  At last, there was open space and the view was awesome.  Although we couldn’t see very far due to the clouds, the hulking rock wall on Tommyhoi on the opposite side of the lake featured a couple of nice, tall, thin waterfalls coming off.  This looked to be a set on the Lord of the Rings or something.  It was quite fantastic.

Even though we were at the lake, we weren’t out of it yet.  We had to cross at least three different log jams before arriving at the head of the lake where we finally spotted the trail.  Before heading out, we replenished our water supplies and drank our fill.  Even though the trail seems to be losing the battle with the brush, it was nice to have trail at least.  At a small campground a couple hundred yards upstream, we had to scout around to find the trail; it was well hidden.  After taking a wrong branch, we found it.  From here on out, it was trail all the way.

We made quick time out.  There was one section that was absolutely awesome:  a very flat green meadow with these white, ball-shaped flowers on high stalks.  The low, misty clouds really made the view quite ethereal.  It was as if the flowers were floating in the air.

We began the switchbacks up to Gold Run Pass.  I was watching my altimeter again and noted our progress.  Having the altimeter for this reason really helps out psychologically, I think.  When you don’t know how much further you have to go, the steps and switchbacks can seem endless.  We arrived over the pass with slightly better views on the other side but everything was still socked in.  Pretty soon, we realized we weren’t going to make it back to the road before dark.  After a while we were engulfed in darkness and had to use our headlamps.  Thank goodness for headlamps otherwise we’d be spending the night in the forest.  It was great getting back to the trailhead.  We were mentally prepared for the 1,600 foot march up the road to the Jeep and we drank our remaining water, dropped our packs and headed up.

We both felt good hiking at first.  Since it was dark, we marched pretty fast, making good time up the long road.  The first switchback couldn’t come fast enough though and it was at this first switchback that both Dan and I tanked.  Within a span of 15 minutes maybe, I became tired like never before.  Sitting at the switchback, I was literally having a hard time holding my head up.  I had to balance my head on the handle of my trekking pole to keep from toppling over.  I knew if I were to lay on the ground that I would be out cold, though I was so tempted.  I actually contemplated the thought of a night in a ditch.  Each switchback (there were six) was grueling.  It was pitch black, and there was a bit of mist falling on us now.  We took a rest at every switchback and found somewhere to sit, even if it were a mound of dirt.  Every time I sat, I felt as if I was going to pass out.  I had counted the switchbacks as we were driving up and I knew we were on our last one finally.  When I saw the sign for Twin Lakes, I got a boost of energy from somewhere.  Dan also mentioned that he had Cokes in the Jeep.  That sounded like liquid gold at the time!  The Jeep was still parked a good distance away, but a least we didn’t have to go up anymore.  I continued on in front of Dan and finally made it to the Jeep.  I tore into a Coke and drank my fill although Dan was too tired.  He was even too exhausted to drive.  I drove us out and after a long drive on a bumpy road we made it to the Mount Baker highway.  Twenty minutes on this road though and I was barely able to see straight.  I started seeing double vision and was having less and less success in controlling it.  So, we pulled over; I could not physically continue.  Dan had slept a bit and managed to go a little further, just close enough to get cell range was what he wanted.  We didn’t make it and before long he couldn’t see straight.  We pulled in to a gas station after minute and fell asleep.  After 30 minutes or so, I heard Dan talking.  We started again.  We finally got into cell phone range, called, and made it back to Dan’s house where I graciously accepted a  shower and bed.  I drove home the next day thinking I wouldn’t be able to make it to work.  I felt pretty good, most surprisingly, and made it in to work around 10.

Mount Shuksan

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Dan really wanted to climb Mount Shuksan.  When he decided to come out for a visit and to try his skills in the Cascades, there was no doubt what peak he wanted to climb.  I suggested a few other climbs but this was only to go through the formalities.  Mount Shuksan it was so we both began reading about the route and studying the map.  From the descriptions we read, the glacier was fairly gentle and the summit pyramid was 3rd class.  One of these statements proved to be way off.  Dan arrived in Seattle Friday night and we spent the evening packing up and getting everything ready to go.  We left the following morning around 7:15 and arrived at the ranger station in Sedro-Wooley at about 8:45.  We asked for permits to camp on the Sulphide Glacier and the ranger told us that they just filled up.  So, we faced what we thought was our first mini-crisis.  The ranger did say that we were allowed to camp in the National Forest (but not the National Park) which was about 1000 feet below.  So this wasn’t a big deal.  We headed out looking for places to eat and ended up in a little breakfast joint in Concrete.  It was nice to have a good breakfast before starting our hike.  We then drove up to the trailhead, which was quite full, and headed up.

We started off at 2500 feet on the awesome Shannon Ridge trail.  The National Park boundary was up on Shannon Ridge so our campsite would be there; we were hoping that it would be open enough for some views.  Often in the North Cascades, you’re in thick trees and brush for so long that you begin feeling claustrophobic and longing for views.  In Colorado, you generally don’t have to worry about this.  Anyway, the trail was nice and gentle for a couple of miles or so and then began turning steeply up.  The weather was mercifully overcast so it was cool but we couldn’t see the high peaks during the occasional glimpses through the trees – we only saw the fringes of snow on the lower slopes.  At times the trail was loaded with roots and the brush was occasionally quite thick but we had a lot to be thankful for – like the trail!  Soon, we broke out on to Shannon Ridge and saw that the trees were becoming more sparse.  We’d certainly have some good views once the clouds cleared.  In front of us, we could see the base of Mount Baker.  Then I happened to tilt my head more skyward and saw that part of the clouds had parted revealing more of Mount Baker.  What a HUGE mountain!  The view was awe-inspiring and we quickly made our way up to the National Park boundary and our campsite.

Our campsite was indeed awesome (above), on top of a knoll with views of Mount Baker to the west and Mount Blum and the North Cascades to the east.  After resting and getting some food, I decided to hike up to the col about 400 feet above us.  I thought maybe I could get a view of the next section of the route.  The clouds were beginning to clear and it appeared that there was blue sky beyond the col but there were still low clouds passing silently above us.  Without a pack, I was able to get to the col really quickly and I could see the next part of the route.  I memorized the crucial landmarks since we had to traverse this section of the climb in darkness early tomorrow morning.  So, I headed back down and we spent the rest of the time taking pictures and enjoying the awe-inspiring views.  This campsite was definitely one of the most scenic that I’ve ever had.  The clouds cleared more and we had great views of Baker.  The setting sun masked some of the detail on it but the peaks to the west were crystal clear.  We set our alarms for 2am and turned in around 9:30.  We left the tent open (with the mosquito netting of course) and enjoyed the last light of the setting sun.

I recall having dreams that I was at a summer camp or something and was trying to go to sleep yet someone was snoring.  I wonder if this had any bearing on reality!  The next thing I knew, Dan was trying to wake me up – we’d somehow slept through two alarms and it was 2:50.  Opening the door to the tent, I noticed that it was a clear and calm outside.  I looked up at the silhouette of Mount Baker and witnessed a shooting star over it.  Awesome.  As we got ready, we saw several others.  We had a quick breakfast and headed out around 3:15.  It was pretty easy going up to the col and beyond since I’d checked out the route the day before.  We made good time.  At the col, the route turns to the left and traverses around a basin and then hooks back to the left again around a rocky buttress.  After maybe 50 more feet, we arrived at the base of the glacier.   We continued up a little farther without crampons and though it was not steep, it was slick so we made our way towards a small rock outcropping and put on our crampons.

It was much easier going with our crampons obviously.  We crested a ridge and saw a couple of the tents.  So, this was where we would be camping if we had gotten a permit.  In retrospect, I was very happy with the was things worked out.  Though we had to deal with the bugs, we were at least in a more inhabitable place; glaciers are just so unbelievably hot in the daytime.  We went beyond the tents to a second crest then roped up.  At this point the sun was just barely starting to come up.  We continued up the glacier which was almost like a giant rounded staircase.  We would head up a steep slope which leveled off for a while, then would climb the next slope that eventually leveled off as well.  We passed a few crevasses but they were easy to spot.  High on the Sulphide Glacier is pretty safe regarding crevasses.  The dangerous terrain naturally gravitates towards the center slopes below.

We had clear views of the summit pyramid at this point.  The Sulphide Glacier is really really big but we made great time over the gentle slopes.  We passed the exit for Hell’s Highway and took a break before heading up the final snow slopes that led to the base of the summit pyramid.  Earlier on, we’d seen headlamps up on the summit pyramid.  Apparently, someone else had a much earlier start than we did.  There was a second snowfield past about 100 feet of rock on the summit pyramid so we decided to leave our crampons on.  The rock section wasn’t too hard until we came to a five foot wall that we had to heave ourselves over.  The second section of snow was much steeper but nothing to worry about.  At the end of the snowfield, we took off our crampons and unroped.  We decided that we could just leave the rope here and go as light as possible.  I guess we could have left our crampons too, but we didn’t.

We began what we thought was a 3rd class scramble.  The terrain quickly became quite hard.  It was easily 4th class, and if it were up to me, I’d rate it as hard 4th class.  We had to wind around a good bit to find the safest route up.  It didn’t help that I had my bulky camera case in front of me but I wanted to take pictures!  After about climbing 100 vertical feet, we realized this would be no easy climb, in fact, it would be quite difficult.  Dan decided to ask the party behind us (who happened to be camped near us) to bring our rope up to us in case we needed it.  This was a wise move.  We had to wait a while but at least we had our rope now.  While we were waiting the group that we’d seen earlier up on the summit pyramid were coming down.  They were a guided group and had a complete set of rock gear.  The were rappelling the entire route.  I talked briefly with the guide and then continued up.  I was pretty far in front of Dan and ended up in front of another chockstone.  Instead of climbing it, I opted to climb a small fin up to a ledge that appeared to connect back with the gully we were in above.  Plus, the guide indicated that it would hook back up with the gully.  Dan continued up the standard route. 

Soon enough, I realized that I was not going to be able to get back into the gully.  I moved 10 feet in the other direction and realized that I was on the ridge.  In front of me, the terrain looked hard, exposed, but doable.  I was a bit nervous about this but went up anyway.  I was about 50 feet below the summit on a smooth, fairly steep face.  This was easily 5th class and my heart was beating hard as I carefully made my way up.  Fortunately, it became much easier about 20 feet up.  The footing was much more secure although it was still hugely exposed.  Finally, I arrived on the top.  I saw Dan coming up a steep section in the gully.  We’d both picked much harder routes up to the summit.  By far the easiest way up to the summit once you’re about 50 feet below the summit is to move on to the ridge to the left (northwest).  This is only 4th class and the difficulties are very short.  Anyway, we were both on top.  This was a much more difficult climb than we were anticipating!  We realized that we’d need to rappel at least two sections of the climb in order to descend safely.  We stayed on top for at least thirty minutes and then started down.  We ran into the party of three that brought up our rope and they offered to rappel with us down the hard sections.  We planned on tying our ropes together so that we could rappel the longer sections easily.

We descended about 40 feet down the “easy” ridge to the rappel station.  Dan and I ended up free climbing the descent since it wasn’t very hard.  There were other parties heading up now and I’d say that at least 2/3rds of the people were using a belay to climb.  The middle section was a little easier so we down climbed that as well.  The rest of the group decided to belay each other, which was probably smart, but we felt pretty comfortable.  However, we knew we’d need to rappel the lower section.  We tied our ropes together and I started the rappel down to the second snowfield.  It was a pain at times since I naturally had to untangle the rope but we all made it down without incident.  Once we got all the was down to the base of the summit pyramid, we sort of felt home free, though we still had a long hike in front of us.

The hike back to camp was indeed a long one but not that bad.  After all, the views were incredible.  For one, the sun was high enough in the sky now that the North Cascade peaks weren’t washed out but were brilliant and clear.  We took off our crampons once were were past the crevassed area and glissaded the steeper sections back down to the base of the glacier.  We made it back to camp pretty fast.  We were really tired back at camp and we were looking forward to a bit of time for relaxing but the bugs were pretty bad.  I opted for jumping in the tent just to get out of the sun and away from the bugs.  It was hot but at least there was a little breeze.  I didn’t stay long and the bugs were attacking Dan so he was ready to head out.  We packed up and headed out.  The hike out seemed quite long.  A lot longer than I remembered.  Finally, we made it back to the car and I gave Dan the congratulatory handshake for our successful climb of Mount Shuksan and his introduction to the North Cascades.